Introduction Since its independence in 1956, Sudan has experienced steady urban growth. By 2015, an estimated 34% of the total population lived in urban areas. It is projected that urbanization will increase at an annual rate of nearly 2.5%.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society: Urbanization,” in The World Factbook, 26 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html With the secession of the largely rural South in July 2011, this rate will probably continue to fluctuate because of massive rural to urban migration and displacement due to ongoing conflicts, drought and its consequences, the country’s political environment, and inadequate rural development.United Nations Human Settlements Programme (UN-HABITAT), “Sudan: Home,” October 2016, http://unhabitat.org/sudan/ The population of Khartoum, a vast sprawling megalopolis, is estimated at around 5 million, nearly 14% of Sudan’s population. Like many cities that have experienced rapid growth, Khartoum and other Sudanese cities have quickly grown beyond what the infrastructure and services can properly accommodate.United Nations Human Settlements Programme (UN-HABITAT), “Sudan: Home,” October 2016, http://unhabitat.org/sudan/ Urbanization Issues Decades of violence between the Sudanese government and various rebel groups have caused significant population displacements and an immigrant population living in deplorable circumstances in rudimentary shelters. Unable to find adequate employment, they struggle to survive. These conditions are the norm in Khartoum, Port Sudan, Nyala, and small urban centers throughout the country.Sara Pavanello, “Urbanization in Sudan: An Overview of International Engagement,” Middle East Institute—Fondation pour la Recherche Stratégique (January 2011), http://www.refugeecooperation.org/publications/sudan/pdf/03_pavanello.pdf Civil war and ethnic conflicts have also driven the resurgence of slavery in the country. Women and children, many of them from the southern regions, are kidnapped and used as slaves. Although slavery is against the law in Sudan, there are estimates that several thousand individuals have been enslaved, serving as domestic servants and concubines. Some of the captives escape, but some are handed over by their captors in exchange for fresh water and land. The government denies the problem exists, but has given in to international pressure, establishing committees to look into the problem.Fatin Abbas, “Coming to Terms with Sudan’s Legacy of Slavery,”African Arguments, 18 January 2016, http://africanarguments.org/2016/01/18/coming-to-terms-with-sudans-legacy-of-slavery-2/ The Sudanese government routinely expels international nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) and humanitarian missions that provide assistance to the country’s needy. The United Nations, the United States, and many other nations have declared sanctions against the government of Sudan for its role in the atrocities in the country’s numerous civil conflicts, including Darfur, and for its support for international terrorism.Office of Foreign Assets Control, U.S. Department of the Treasury, “Sudan Sanctions Program,” (report, 5 November 2013), http://www.treasury.gov/resource-center/sanctions/Programs/Documents/sudan.pdf Thus there are few resources with which to make the necessary improvements that could alleviate the major problems facing cities.Office of Foreign Assets Control, U.S. Department of the Treasury, “Sudan Sanctions Program,” (report, 5 November 2013), http://www.treasury.gov/resource-center/sanctions/Programs/Documents/sudan.pdf, Security Council Committee, United Nations, “Security Council Committee Established Pursuant to Resolution 1591 (2005) Concerning the Sudan,” n.d., https://www.un.org/sc/suborg/en/sanctions/1591, U.S. Department of State Bureau of Economic and Business Affairs, “Sudan: 2016 Investment Climate Statements,” 5 July 2016, http://www.state.gov/e/eb/rls/othr/ics/2016/af/254249.htm These difficulties are compounded by the loss of many of the country’s oil fields to South Sudan and by the U.S. decision in early November 2011 to extend economic sanctions against Khartoum.Sara Pantuliano et al., City Limits: Urbanisation and Vulnerability in Sudan: Khartoum Case Study (London: Humanitarian Policy Group, 2011), 25, http://www.odi.org.uk/resources/download/5295.pdf, Andrew Quinn, “U.S. Extends Long-Standing Sanctions on Sudan,” Reuters, 1 November 2011, http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/11/01/us-sudan-usa-idUSTRE7A07BD20111101, Office of Foreign Assets Control, U.S. Department of the Treasury, “Sudan Sanctions Program,” (report, 5 November 2013), http://www.treasury.gov/resource-center/sanctions/Programs/Documents/sudan.pdf Although telecommunication systems are modern and provide high-quality access to global information, such services are not readily available to the majority of Sudanese. Only 370,400 Sudanese have landlines. Cellular communication is more reliable. According to 2015 estimates, there are almost 28 million cellular subscribers. Internet use has increased to about 9.6 million users; this figure represents about 27% of the population. Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: Communication,” in The World Factbook, 26 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html May I use your phone? Visitor: min faDlak mumkin asta'mil teleefonak? May I use your phone? Local: tafaDal Sure. 10 Work Problems in Urban Areas Due to a lack of basic services and lack of employment in rural areas, people continue to leave their villages and move to the cities. However, because many of those moving from rural to urban areas lack the needed skills and capital to start businesses, they end up unemployed or in the informal sector.Bertelsmann Stiftung’s Transformation Index (BTI), “BTI 2016: Sudan Country Report,” (country report, 2016), 21, https://www.bti-project.org/fileadmin/files/BTI/Downloads/Reports/2016/pdf/BTI_2016_Sudan.pdf, African Economic Outlook 2016, “Special Theme: Sustainable Cities and Structural Transformation: Country Notes: Sudan,” (annual economic report, African Development Bank, OECD Development Centre, and the United Nations Development Programme, 2016), 318, http://www.afdb.org/fileadmin/uploads/afdb/Documents/Publications/AEO_2016_Report_Full_English.pdf This situation is made even more severe by internally displaced people (IDPs) from ongoing conflicts and civil war in the region, environmental change, and population growth. This migration places tremendous pressure on urban services.African Economic Outlook 2016, “Special Theme: Sustainable Cities and Structural Transformation: Country Notes: Sudan,” (annual economic report, African Development Bank, OECD Development Centre, and the United Nations Development Programme, 2016), 318, http://www.afdb.org/fileadmin/uploads/afdb/Documents/Publications/AEO_2016_Report_Full_English.pdf In 2016, annual income was USD 4,300, which represents stagnation over the previous three years. This figure, of course, does not reflect the true rate because much of Sudan’s economy takes place on the gray and black markets.“Update 1 – Sudanese Pound Falls Sharply Against Dollar on Black Market,” Reuters, 12 April 2016, http://www.reuters.com/article/sudan-currency-idUSL5N17F35A With inflation hovering around 17.3%, the prospects for the average Sudanese worker are bleak.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: Economy,” in The World Factbook, 26 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html Healthcare and Health Issues Most medical facilities in Sudan are controlled by the military or the government. Healthcare is scarcely available outside urban areas. In 2011, life expectancy was just over 64 years, and the infant mortality rate was about 50 deaths per 1,000 live births.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html Much of the funding that might otherwise be directed at social services, such as the provision of healthcare, has instead been diverted to the military. Because of the seemingly endless civil wars, many professionals have left the country in search of better employment. There are shortages in medicine, trained doctors, and hospital equipment. In 2008, physicians numbered 0.28 per 1,000 people; nurses and midwives numbered about 0.84 per 1,000 people.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html However, despite healthcare delivery problems, most Sudanese have health certificates that list all the vaccinations they have ever received.Peter Schwartzstein, “Sudan’s Vaccination Card Black Market,” The Daily Beast, 30 August 2015, http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2015/08/31/sudan-s-vaccination-card-black-market.html Is there a doctor here? Visitor: hal fee Tabeeb hina? Is there a doctor here? Local: laa No. 11 War and recurring droughts have led to massive displacement of populations throughout the country, and malnutrition is widespread outside the central Nile corridor. Approximately 2.2 million Sudanese are categorized as internally displaced persons (IDPs), primarily due to the ongoing violence in Darfur.U.S. Department of State. Bureau of African Affairs, “Background Note: Sudan,” 28 October 2016, http://www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/5424.htm Spending on healthcare remains low, totaling only 8.4% of the GDP in 2014.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html, World Health Organization, “Sudan,” 2016, http://www.who.int/countries/sdn/en/ Most people do not have health insurance and must pay whenever they visit a doctor or a clinic. Consequently, most people delay seeking medical care.Our Africa, “Sudan: Poverty and Healthcare,” n.d., http://www.our-africa.org/sudan/poverty-healthcare Do you need my help? Visitor: intoo daayireen musaa'ada minee? Do you need my help? Local: aywa Yes. 12 Is there a medical clinic nearby? Visitor: fee shafaKhaana hina gareeb? Is there a medical clinic nearby? Local: aywa hinaak Yes, over there. 13 Approximately 60% of Sudanese lack basic sanitation and safe drinking water. Among internally displaced persons (IDPs) women, children, the elderly, and those with disabilities are the most vulnerable, especially in camps and informal settlements.United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs, “ 2016 Humanitarian Needs Overview: Sudan: Part I: Humanitarian Impact” (country report, Humanitarian Country Team, 2016), 9-10, https://www.humanitarianresponse.info/en/system/files/documents/files/2016_-_humanitarian_needs_overview_sudan_final_lowres.pdf This has placed over half of the country’s population at risk for disease and malnutrition.United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs, “ 2016 Humanitarian Needs Overview: Sudan: Part I: Humanitarian Impact” (country report, Humanitarian Country Team, 2016), 9-10, https://www.humanitarianresponse.info/en/system/files/documents/files/2016_-_humanitarian_needs_overview_sudan_final_lowres.pdf Visitors to Sudan are advised to have adequate health insurance before traveling and to have current vaccinations for yellow fever, hepatitis (A and B), typhoid, tetanus, polio, rabies, and meningitis.Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, ““Health Information for Travelers to Sudan,” 8 November 2011, http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/destinationSudan.aspx Malaria is prevalent, so preventive medication is recommended. A mosquito net and mosquito repellant are crucial, even more so if you are traveling in the southern areas.Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, “Health Information for Travelers to Sudan,” October 2016, http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/destinationSudan.aspx Education and Schools in Cities The government of Sudan provides free and compulsory primary education for children from age 6 to13. The language of instruction in primary school is Arabic. After completing an additional three years of secondary education, students are eligible to attend university.Encyclopædia Britannica Online, “Sudan: Government and Society: Education,” 2016, https://www.britannica.com/place/Sudan/Political-process#toc24355 The requirement to serve in the military before completing one’s education affected students at the secondary and university levels; however, this requirement was eliminated in 2011.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: Military,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html In 1990, the al-Bashir regime began to enforce the requirement that Arabic be the sole language of instruction for institutions of higher education. Arabization and Islamist ideology were introduced into the curriculum, even in schools run by non-Muslim religious institutions.Gamal Gasim, “Reflecting on Sudan’s Higher Education Revolution under Al-Bashir’s Regime,” Comparative & International Higher Education 2 (2010): 50–53, http://www.higheredsig.org/cihe/Number02-15.pdf School enrollment varies by region and falls below 20% in some areas. Nevertheless, literacy rates are increasing. In 2003, the literacy rate was 72% for men and 51% for women.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html By 2016, 83% of men and 68% of women could read and write.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html Educational opportunities have drawn people from the rural areas to Khartoum. However, dropout rates are high, largely because of economic hardships facing students’ families.Sara Pantuliano et al., “City Limits: Urbanisation and Vulnerability in Sudan: Khartoum Case Study” (country study report: Humanitarian Policy Group, 2011), http://www.odi.org.uk/resources/download/5295.pdf Restaurants Because eating out is generally more expensive than what the average Sudanese would normally spend to buy food to cook at home, families tend not to go out to restaurants. Nevertheless, eating at cafés or restaurants in Sudan is not much different from the West. Customers are greeted and shown where to sit. When patronizing restaurants, tipping is normal. It is best to drink only bottled beverages and to use caution when dining out. Beef and lamb are considered to be safe choices at restaurants.Paul Clammer, Sudan, 2nd ed. (Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 2009), 58., Embassy of the United States, Khartoum, Sudan, “About Sudan: Eating Out,” n.d., http://sudan.usembassy.gov/eating_out.html Marketplace and Street Vendors There are two types of markets in Sudan: the traditional local market and the new modern market. Markets, called suqs, may carry a wide variety of goods or specialty items.Paul Clammer, Sudan, 2nd ed. (Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 2009), 73., Patricia Levy and Zawaih Abdul Latif, Sudan (New York: Marshall Cavendish Benchmark, 2008), 72. Visiting a suq is a good way to be exposed to the daily life of the Sudanese people.Patricia Levy and Zawaih Abdul Latif, Sudan (New York: Marshall Cavendish Benchmark, 2008), 72. The Omdurman Suq in Khartoum is one of Sudan’s oldest markets. Tourists and locals are drawn to its long alleys displaying handcrafted gold and silver jewelry, African beads, copperware, and leather goods.Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html, Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: People and Society,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html Is the market nearby? Visitor: fee sooq gareeb hina? Is the market nearby? Local: aywa Yes. 14 Bargaining is considered an art form in these markets. Negotiating a price is customary, but you should not start bargaining for something unless you intend to buy it.Scott Wayne and Damien Simonis, Egypt and the Sudan: A Travel Survival Kit (Berkeley, CA: Lonely Planet Publications, 1994), 148 While you want to make sure you are not paying too much for an item, you should also offer a fair price. If you are unsure, ask a local for assistance. Before you shop, research the average prices of items you want to buy. Decide in advance what your limit will be. Look at the price tag as a suggested amount that can be negotiated.Scott Wayne and Damien Simonis, Egypt & the Sudan: A Travel Survival Kit (Berkeley, CA: Lonely Planet Publications, 1994), 148. How much longer will you be here? Visitor: Hatug'udu kam min al-waqt hina? How much longer will you be here? Local: taanee talaata saa'aat Three more hours. 15 I can give you this much money for this. Visitor: badeek guroosh kiteer lee-daa I can give you this much money for this. Local: laa No. 16 Lower-priced items are not always worth the time and effort of haggling. Paying full price for such items shows support for the small business merchants. Some shopkeepers may speak English, but if they do not, you can usually make yourself understood with gestures and a friendly smile. Keeping a list of Arabic numbers with you comes in handy.Scott Wayne and Damien Simonis, Egypt & the Sudan: A Travel Survival Kit (Berkeley, CA: Lonely Planet Publications, 1994), 148. May I hold this and inspect it? Visitor: 'mumkin afatish daa? May I hold this and inspect it? Local: 'mumkin Yes. 17 Do you have this in a different color? Visitor: Indak alwaan mukhtalifa min da? Do you have this in a different color? Local: aywa Yes. 18 Street Vendors LMany IDPs and refugees have become street vendors. Yet, ongoing price increases across the country, coupled with a lack of employment opportunities, has pressed many university graduates to turn to street vending as a means of support.All Africa, “Sudan: Street Vendor Warns of Growing Insecurity in Khartoum,” 23 January 2014, http://allafrica.com/stories/201401240080.html Regardless, visitors should keep in mind that some street vendors can be quite aggressive in demanding that you buy something from them.Ibrahim Elnur, Contested Sudan: The Political Economy of War and Reconstruction (New York: Routledge, 2009), 105. Buy something from me. Visitor: maa tishtaree Haaja minee Buy something from me. Local: laa amshee ba'eed / rooH No. Go away. 19 Money, Credit Cards, and ATMs Cash is preferred for most transactions in Sudan. The primary form of currency in Sudan is the Sudanese Pound (SDG). Although there are other ways to exchange money (such as the black market), it is a legal requirement to exchange currency only at a bank or an official Bureau de Change, usually located in a bank or a travel agency, and sometimes at airports and train stations. There are also a number of private exchange offices in Khartoum, which generally have better exchange rates than banks and are open longer hours.Ulf Laessing, “Sudan May Have to Devalue Pound to Fight Black Market: Bankers,” Reuters, 15 November 2011, http://af.reuters.com/article/investingNews/idAFJOE7AE0HL20111115?sp=true, Marc-Antoine Pérouse de Montclos, Diasporas, Remittances and Africa South of the Sahara : A Strategic Assessment (Pretoria, South Africa: Institute for Security Studies, 2005): 44, http://dspace.cigilibrary.org/jspui/bitstream/123456789/31447/1/112FULL.pdf?1, Paul Clammer, Sudan, 2nd ed. (Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 2009), 97. Typically, credit cards and travelers checks are not accepted except at some international hotels and airline offices. ATMs do not accept foreign cards due to international sanctions, and some will block your account the moment you try to log in. PayPal will also do this. If necessary, money can be wired to Khartoum and Port Sudan through Western Union and Travelex.Lonely Planet, “Sudan: Money and Costs,” 2016, http://www.lonelyplanet.com/sudan/money-costs Urban Traffic and Transportation Road conditions in Sudan differ significantly from those in the United States. They are considered hazardous due to the numerous animals and pedestrians on the roads, erratic drivers, and heavily overloaded vehicles lacking basic safety equipment. Outside of Khartoum, there are virtually no traffic signals and local drivers will often stop without warning, or drive too fast for road and weather conditions. Driving at night is dangerous and should be avoided since drivers often do not use their vehicle lights. Further, many vehicles do not have working turn signals, brake lights, or even brakes.USA International Business Publications (firm), Sudan: Investment and Business Guide: Volume 1: Strategic and Practical Information (Washington, DC: International Business Publications, 2002), 234–35., Country Reports, “Sudan: Traffic and Road Conditions in Sudan,” n.d., http://www.countryreports.org/travel/Sudan/traffic.htm Is there a car mechanic nearby? Visitor: fee makneekee kweys gareeb hina? Is there a car mechanic nearby? Local: laa No. 20 Traffic jams are very common in the larger cities, especially during rush hour—between 7–8 a.m. and 2–4 p.m.. You should travel with other people whenever possible, carry only small amounts of local currency, be certain of your destination, and make sure you have clear directions.USA International Business Publications (firm), Sudan: Investment and Business Guide: Volume 1: Strategic and Practical Information (Washington, DC: International Business Publications, 2002), 234 Taxis are easy to find in downtown Khartoum and larger cities, but they typically cannot be called by phone. Two types of taxis are available in Sudan. The first is a non-metered taxi that takes only one passenger from point A to point B. Fares for non-metered one-person taxis rides should be negotiated and agreed upon beforehand. The second type of taxi is a shared minibus, called bakassis, which has no set route or stops. Bakassis simply pick up and drop off wherever people ask them to.iExplore, “Sudan Taxis and Car Rental,” n.d., http://www.iexplore.com/articles/travel-guides/africa/sudan/transportation Can I get a cab around here? Visitor: fee takaasee hina? Can I get a cab around here? Local: aywa Yes. 21 Most taxi drivers do not speak English very well, and their vehicles can be in varying states of disrepair. Taxis are generally not available after dark in residential areas. Daytime rates are reasonable, but they usually double at night. Foreigners can expect to pay double rates any time of day or night.eDiplomat.com, “Sudan,” Post Reports, 16 April 2004, http://www.ediplomat.com/np/post_reports/pr_sd.htm It is customary to wave down a taxi. Negotiate the rate before hiring a driver. Avoid getting into a cab that already has a passenger. Whether you hire a cab for yourself or for a group, you are expected to tip the driver.iExplore, “Sudan Taxis and Car Rental,” n.d., http://www.iexplore.com/articles/travel-guides/africa/sudan/transportation It is a good idea to join up with fellow travelers before you hire a taxi. It is safer and you can share the fee. To avoid confusion, be sure to tell the driver where you are going before you hire him. For the most part, taxis in Sudan are more reliable and more comfortable than public transportation. iExplore, “Sudan Taxis and Car Rental,” n.d., http://www.iexplore.com/articles/travel-guides/africa/sudan/transportation Can you take me there? Visitor: Mumkin tawadeeni hinak? Can you take me there? Local: aywa ta'aal waraay Yes. Follow me. 22 Renting a car is also an option. A valid U.S. driver’s license may be used during the first 90 days of a visit. After that period, a Sudanese driver’s license or international driving permit is needed. Auto Driver Club, Division of NYS Zone, Inc., “Sudan )Republic of the Sudan): International Driver License Republic of the Sudan,” n.d., http://www.international-driver-license.com/Sudan.html Car rentals are available in major cities and at airports. Rental cars are expensive, however, and traveling by car is risky in many areas of the country. Visitors renting a car should consider hiring a guide or local driver. Use caution and be aware that jaywalking is an acceptable practice.USA International Business Publications (firm), Sudan: Investment and Business Guide: Volume 1: Strategic and Practical Information (Washington, DC: International Business Publications, 2002), 234–35. Do you accept U.S. currency? Visitor: mumkin tasheel dolaar? Do you accept U.S. currency? Local: laa benisheel deenaar bas No, we only accept dinars. 23 Can I rent a car from you? Visitor: Mumkin a’ajur minak arabia? Can I rent a car from you? Local: laa No. 24 Sudan’s infrastructure includes waterways, railroads, roads, and air service. Much of it, except for the waterways system, is in a state of disrepair from neglect. Sudan has long used the White Nile, Blue Nile, Atbarah, Sobat, and Bahr al-Ghazal rivers as a natural transportation system to move goods between tropical Africa and the Mediterranean. Sudan’s railroads and roads were built during the British colonial era and, for the most part, have not been modernized.Auto Driver Club, Division of NYS Zone, Inc., “Sudan )Republic of the Sudan): International Driver License Republic of the Sudan,” n.d., http://www.international-driver-license.com/Sudan.html The rail system is more extensive and serves more of the country. The road system, particularly between Khartoum and the Red Sea, has been expanded, but most of the interior is not accessible to vehicles. According to pre-secession figures, there are approximately 11,900 km (7,394 miles) of roadways in Sudan, 64% of which are unpaved dirt tracks that are difficult to navigate during the rainy season. Sudan Airways serves both international and domestic passengers from 116 airports, 17 of which have paved runways. An oil pipeline that connects the southern oil fields to Khartoum and Port Sudan runs for 4,070 km (2,529 mi), and an additional pipeline for refined products runs for 1,613 km (1,002 mi).Central Intelligence Agency, “Sudan: Transportation,” in The World Factbook, 28 October 2016, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html, Institute of Developing Economies, “Sudan Railways Corporation (SRC): Transportation,” Japan External Trade Organization, n.d., http://www.ide.go.jp/English/Data/Africa_file/Company/sudan05.html Is there a gas station nearby? Visitor: fee hina maHaTa wuqood? Is there a gas station nearby? Local: aywa Yes. 25 Street Crime and Solicitations Crime in north and central Sudan remains relatively low compared to other African nations.Overseas Security Advisory Council, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, U.S. Department of State, “Sudan 2016 Crime and Safety Report,” (country report, 24 May 2016), https://www.osac.gov/Pages/ContentReportPDF.aspx?cid=17690 Most reported street crimes are pickpocketing, bag snatches, smash-and-grabs, and car break-ins. Visitors outside of Khartoum are advised to keep a low profile, maintain situational awareness, minimize drinking alcohol in public, and mix up the times of days and routes of travel to and from specific locations. Traveling in groups lessens the chance of being targeted.Overseas Security Advisory Council, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, U.S. Department of State, “Sudan 2016 Crime and Safety Report,” (country report, 24 May 2016), https://www.osac.gov/Pages/ContentReportPDF.aspx?cid=17690 In all urban areas, you might be approached by beggars asking for money or food. Many of these people are IDPs who had to leave their villages. They are called shamasa, or vagabonds.M. A. Mohamed Salih, “Nuba and Ogoni: Genocide in a Shrinking Environmental Space,” in Environmental Politics and Liberation in Contemporary Africa (Dordrechet, Netherlands: Kluwer Academic Publishers, 1999), 66. Outside the capital city Khartoum, particularly in Darfur, armed robberies, carjackings, home invasions, and kidnappings by gangs and militias are common. Generally, criminals do not kill or seriously harm their victims, but attempting to resist is often met with violence.Overseas Security Advisory Council, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, U.S. Department of State, “Sudan 2016 Crime and Safety Report,” (country report, 24 May 2016), https://www.osac.gov/Pages/ContentReportPDF.aspx?cid=17690 Double-edged swords and machetes tend to be the weapon of choice in violent assaults. In the eastern region of Sudan, organized crime networks are involved in smuggling and trafficking through the porous Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Sudan borders. These areas should be avoided.Overseas Security Advisory Council, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, U.S. Department of State, “Sudan 2016 Crime and Safety Report,” (country report, 24 May 2016), https://www.osac.gov/Pages/ContentReportPDF.aspx?cid=17690 Give me money! Visitor: adeenee guroosh! Give me money! Local: laa ma 'indee No, I don’t have any. 26