Introduction With urbanization in Vietnam growing at 3.4% per year, the United Nations projects that half the population will live in cities by 2040. Currently, one in three people in Vietnam lives in a city. Ho Chi Minh City, for example, has an urban density comparable to Tokyo. Streets are clogged with lines of vehicles and motorbikes, some with multiple passengers, speeding in and out of the available space. Such rapid urbanization is placing an increasing burden on cities and municipalities. Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, and many smaller cities struggle to deliver basic city services and safe drinking water, construct needed public transportation systems, improve waste management systems, and ensure food safety. Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, Australian Government, "Demography," DFAT Country Information Report Vietnam (21 June 2017), 5, https://dfat.gov.au/about-us/publications/Documents/country-information-report-vietnam.pdf, Export.gov, International Trade Administration, "Vietnam: Information and Communication Technologies," updated 12 July 2018, https://www.export.gov/article?id=Vietnam-Information-Technology The gap between the wealthiest 20% of the Vietnamese population and the rest has been widening for more than a decade. In 2014, there were 210 individuals worth more than $30 million in Vietnam; their combined wealth was equivalent to 12% of Vietnam’s GDP. Matthew Pike, "Vietnam’s Wealth Growth Is the Fastest on Earth," Culture Trip, 9 February 2018, https://theculturetrip.com/asia/vietnam/articles/vietnams-wealth-growth-fastest-earth/ Cities display the country’s most extreme income disparities. Hanoi, the national capital, and Ho Chi Minh City, the commercial center, have been the primary recipients of foreign direct investment (FDI) under the doi moi economic reforms. As a result, residents of these two major cities enjoy a higher standard of living than people elsewhere. The downtown centers of both cities have been transformed by new construction. Thanh Bui and Katsushi S. Imai, "Determinants of Rural: Urban Inequality in Vietnam: Detailed Decomposition Analyses Based on Unconditional Quantile Regressions" (discussion paper series, RIEB Kobe University, Kobe, Japan, revised 22 April 2018), 2, https://www.ifad.org/documents/36783902/40280999/Katsushi+Imai%2C+Senior+Lecturer+%28Associate+Professor%29+Univ+Manchester.pdf/75cae7d6-717e-4625-8b77-1733f39a0d28, OXFAM, "Even It Up: How to Tackle Inequality in Vietnam," OXFAM Briefing Paper, 12 January 2017, 7–8, https://vietnam.oxfam.org/sites/vietnam.oxfam.org/files/file_attachments/Vietnam%20Inequality%20Report_ENG.pdf, Minh Son, "How Did Vietnam’s Four Richest People Earn Their Billions?" VN Express International, 8 March 2018, https://e.vnexpress.net/news/business/how-did-vietnam-s-four-richest-people-earn-their-billions-3720176.html Vietnam’s middle class includes government employees (one-third of the national workforce), and entrepreneurs who typically have close relations with government officials in a position to provide concessions that are often crucial to profitability. Many other residents are self-employed in the urban informal service economy, particularly those who left the countryside in search of job opportunities. Unable to afford rental housing, many working poor and homeless in Ho Chi Minh City have created squatter settlements along canals. These dwellings lack access to clean water and are susceptible to flooding because of poor drainage. OXFAM, "Even it up: How to Tackle Inequality in Vietnam," OXFAM Briefing Paper, 12 January 2017, 7–8, https://vietnam.oxfam.org/sites/vietnam.oxfam.org/files/file_attachments/Vietnam%20Inequality%20Report_ENG.pdf Periodic municipal government "civilization" (van minh) campaigns often target the poor, who are perceived as degrading the city’s image. Viet Nam News, "HCMC to Move Homeless to Shelters, Provide Jobs," 25 December 2014, https://vietnamnews.vn/society/264482/hcmc-to-move-homeless-to-shelters-provide-jobs.html Telecommunications The vast majority of Vietnamese have cell phones (91%), which can be bought from almost any street vendor. Text messaging is the preferred form of communication for the younger generation. World Bank, "Vietnam: Mobile Cellular Subscript (per 100 People)," accessed 13 December 2018, https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/IT.CEL.SETS.P2?locations=VN, Export.gov, International Trade Administration, "Vietnam: Information and Communication Technologies," updated 12 July 2018, https://www.export.gov/article?id=Vietnam-Information-Technology Five mobile phone companies operate in Vietnam: VNPT-Vinaphone, Mobiphone, Viettel, Vietnammobile, and Gtel.TeleGeography: Authoritative Telecom Data, “Vietnam Plans to Test 5G Next Year,” 21 November 2018, https://www.telegeography.com/products/commsupdate/articles/2018/11/21/vietnam-plans-to-test-5g-next-year/, OXFAM, "Even it up: How to Tackle Inequality in Vietnam," OXFAM Briefing Paper, 12 January 2017, 7–8, https://www.export.gov/article?id=Vietnam-Information-Technology After 4G technology became available in Vietnam in 2015, rapid adoption of 4G-enabled smartphones has made internet access more convenient. Pete Bell, "Hanoi Rocks: Vietnam Gets Nationwide 4G Network," Telegeograpy (blog), 10 May 2017, https://blog.telegeography.com/vietnam-gets-nationwide-4g-lte-network-viettel Vietnam’s biggest mobile carrier, Viettel, will start testing a 5G mobile network in 2019. Tomoya Onishi, "Vietnam’s Viettel to Roll out 5G Service in 2021," Nikkei Asian Review, 5 December 2018, https://asia.nikkei.com/Business/Companies/Vietnam-s-Viettel-to-roll-out-5G-service-in-2021 What is your telephone number? Visitor: deeyen tway koo-a ko so may? What is your telephone number? Local: soo deeyin twaay koo-a toy laar bar muee tarm muee mot Khong haay muee mot My phone number is 3811-0211. 16 May I use your phone? Visitor: toy zoong deeyin twaay koo-a ko dew-uk Khong? May I use your phone? Local: dew-uk Sure. 17 Industry Vietnam’s domestic industry consists of two types of businesses: state-owned enterprises and post-doi moi enterprises. State-owned enterprises developed under a planned economy. Few are financially viable, so they are reliant on subsidies from specific government bureaus. Post-doi moi enterprises have captured industries like electronics and telecommunications, which have become booming industries for Vietnam. Will Greene, "Electronics Manufacturers Bet Big on Vietnam," Forbes, 25 July 2014, https://www.forbes.com/sites/techonomy/2014/07/25/electronics-manufacturers-bet-big-on-vietnam/ In 2017, the country was the world’s ninth-largest electronics exporter. World’s Richest Countries, "Top Electronics Exporters 2017," accessed 13 December 2018, http://www.worldsrichestcountries.com/top_electronics_exporters.html Worldwide, 1 in 10 smartphones is produced in Vietnam. Mobile phones are the country’s number one export, bringing in more than $45 billion in 2017. Machinery, steel, and textiles are also important industries, and Vietnam is quickly becoming one of the world’s largest exporters of garments, shoes, and textiles. Sebastian Eckardt, Deepak Mishra, and Viet Tuan Dinh, "Vietnam’s Manufacturing Miracle: Lessons for Developing Countries," Brookings, 17 April 2018, https://www.brookings.edu/blog/future-development/2018/04/17/vietnams-manufacturing-miracle-lessons-for-developing-countries/, David Nakamura, "Buoyed by U.S. Firms, Vietnam Emerges as an Asian Manufacturing Powerhouse," Washington Post, 21 May 2016, https://www.washingtonpost.com/politics/buoyed-by-us-firms-vietnam-emerges-as-an-asian-manufacturing-powerhouse/2016/05/21/6f117876-1b6a-11e6-b6e0-c53b7ef63b45_story.html?utm_term=.e88eec3cb33e, Lester Gunnion, "Vietnam: Economy Continues Robust Growth in 2018," Deloitte Insights, 31 July 2018, https://www2.deloitte.com/insights/us/en/economy/asia-pacific/vietnam-economic-outlook.htm To meet the demands of increased manufacturing and trade plus a growing population, high-rise office buildings and apartment complexes have been constructed in urban centers. Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s economic powerhouse, accounts for close to 20% of the country’s GDP and 28% of its industrial output. Other major industrial centers are the port city of Da Nang, Bien Hoa, and the northern port city of Haiphong. Joseph Kiprop, "The Biggest Industries in Vietnam," World Atlas, 19 June 2018, https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/the-biggest-cities-in-vietnam.html Haiphong was once a dangerous waterway—heavily mined and bombed during the Vietnam War. Now, Haiphong is the heart of Vietnam’s economic boom. Already an important shallow-water port, it opened a deep-water port in 2018 to accommodate container ships. The city is also home to the country’s first automobile company, VinFast. Paul A. Eisenstein, "Vietnam’s First Automaker is Quickly Getting Ready to Debut a Sedan and A SUV," CNBC, 10 September 2018, https://www.cnbc.com/2018/09/10/is-fast-fast-enough-for-vinfast-vietnams-first-automaker.html Traffic and Transportation The country’s roads have been improved considerably since the Vietnam War, and 84% of its national roads are paved. But these constitute only a small portion of Vietnam’s overall road network, most of which remains unpaved and in poor condition. Karla Koopmann and Camilla Trigona, "Viet Nam Road Network," Logistics Capacity Assessment, updated 31 May 2018, https://dlca.logcluster.org/display/public/DLCA/2.3+Viet+Nam+Road+Network;jsessionid=EBABF0B7F6256D6FE7F5E3487724A646, Jica Reports, "Final Report: Summary: Overview of Vietnam’s Transport Sector," Vietnam National Transport Strategy Study, accessed 13 December 2018, 3-1, http://open_jicareport.jica.go.jp/pdf/11596749_02.pdf. Traffic accidents are the leading cause of death and emergency evacuation of foreigners in Vietnam. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html Though vehicle ownership is rising quickly, car ownership is still low, and road traffic is dominated by motorcycles. Karla Koopmann and Camilla Trigona, "Viet Nam Railway Assessment," Logistics Capacity Assessment, updated 31 May 2018, https://dlca.logcluster.org/display/public/DLCA/2.3+Viet+Nam+Road+Network;jsessionid=818FC825A71FEEF4A5277C16039377F6 Before the 20th century, sea transport was the primary means of connecting the northern and southern parts of the country. For many, boat travel is faster and cheaper than land routes because there is an estuary approximately every 25 km (15 mi) of coastline. Luis C. Blancas and M. Baher El-Hifnawi, "Chapter 2: Demand for Waterborne and Multimodal Transport," in Facilitating Trade through Competitive, Low-Carbon Transport (Washington, DC: International Bank for Reconstruction and Development/World Bank, 2014), 13, http://documents.worldbank.org/curated/en/800501468320727668/pdf/830300PUB0978100Box379862B00PUBLIC0.pdf, Nguyen Viet Thanh, "Overview of Estuary Research and Waterway Engineering in Vietnam" (paper, Conference: Proceedings of 2013 IAHR World Congress, Chengdu, China, September 2013), https://www.researchgate.net/publication/304675526_Overview_of_Estuary_Research_and_Waterway_Engineering_in_Vietnam Rapid passenger growth has strained Vietnam’s existing transportation network, and many highways and airports are severely congested. The government has planned ambitious highway and aviation projects, including construction of thousands of kilometers of new highway by 2020. Oxford Business Group, "Transport: Vietnam’s Focus on Transport Infrastructure Aims to Enhance Efficiency of Moving Goods and Travellers," in The Report: Vietnam 2017, accessed 13 December 2018, https://oxfordbusinessgroup.com/overview/easy-flow-focus-transportation-infrastructure-aims-enhance-efficiency-moving-goods-and-travellers Vietnam has a well-developed domestic flight network that uses airfields built for military aircraft during the years of conflict. Demand for air travel is growing. In 2015, 63 million passengers flew in and out of Vietnamese airports; 18 million were international travelers. Oxford Business Group, "Transport: Vietnam’s Focus on Transport Infrastructure Aims to Enhance Efficiency of Moving Goods and Travellers," in The Report: Vietnam 2017, accessed 13 December 2018, https://oxfordbusinessgroup.com/overview/easy-flow-focus-transportation-infrastructure-aims-enhance-efficiency-moving-goods-and-travellers Though all airports attract travelers, Tan Son Nhat Airport in Ho Chi Minh City is the busiest. As of July 2016, there were 70 international routes connecting Vietnam to 26 countries and territories. There are several domestic airlines—Vietnam Airlines, VietJet Air, Jetstar Pacific Airlines, and Bamboo Airways, which began operation in 2018. Nguyen Kieu Giang, "New Airline Set to Join Vietnam’s Congested Skies," Bloomberg, 31 July 2018, https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-07-31/new-airline-set-to-join-vietnam-s-congested-skies-and-airports Which road leads to the airport? Visitor: dew-urn now zun den sun baay? Which road leads to the airport? Local: dew-urn hew-urng dong The road heading east. 18 On arriving at the airport in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, visitors should choose ground transportation carefully. Some travelers have reported being robbed by drivers who greeted them upon arrival with a sign showing the traveler’s name. Use only established airport taxi companies or vehicles provided by hotels. Know the address of the hotel you are staying at and nearby landmarks. If there is an incident, write down the name of the taxi company and the license plate number so it can be reported to local authorities. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html Where can I get a cab? Visitor: toy kor theeh dorn tak-see uh dow? Where can I get a cab? Local: uh darng keeya keeya Over there. 19 Trains and Buses Vietnam’s rail network was built under French colonial rule. Each line is a single track except near the Chinese border, where it becomes a double track as the train approaches the border town of Lao Cai. The southern rail terminus is still officially named the Saigon Station. Service between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City is on the "Reunification Express," but the name misrepresents the speed of service as the trip takes 30-plus hours. Matthew Pike, "A Guide to Riding Vietnam’s Reunification Express Train," Culture Trip, updated 29 November 2017, https://theculturetrip.com/asia/vietnam/articles/a-guide-to-riding-vietnams-reunification-express-train/, Lonely Planet, "Vietnam: Train," accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam/transport/getting-around/train There is no way to buy a combination pass ticket. Stopping over along the way requires the purchase of a new ticket. There are more than 100 stops on the over 1,000-mile (1,610-km) line, but most "express" trains only stop at about 20. Since there is just one track, trains must pull off regularly to let trains from the opposite direction pass. Heidi Fuller-Love, "Vietnam by the Night Train: Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi," Rough Guides, updated 23 September 2018, https://www.roughguides.com/article/vietnam-by-the-night-train-ho-chi-min-to-hanoi/, Vietnam Railway System, "Train Fares for All Trains Departing from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City," accessed 13 December 2018, https://vietnam-railway.com/train/route/train-from-hanoi-to-ho-chi-minh-city Is there a train station nearby? Visitor: kor gar sair luwa uh gun daay Khong? Is there a train station nearby? Local: Khong No. 20 Rail service is complemented by an extensive network of inexpensive, long-distance bus services. The vintage De Soto buses are quite utilitarian. Newer models may come equipped with 24-hour entertainment, such as a DVD player and karaoke microphones for all passengers to use. Worldwide Travellers, "5 Major Cities Worth a Visit," in Vietnam: Where to Go, What to See: A Vietnam Travel Guide (Worldwide Travellers, 2017), loc. 64, Kindle. Note, however, that long-distance buses do not meet U.S. safety standards. Buses and trucks are often overloaded and travel at high speeds with little regard to other modes of road transportation. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html Will the bus be here soon? Visitor: sair byut sarp den daay faay Khong? Will the bus be here soon? Local: vang Yes. 21 Getting around within a City Cyclos (three-wheeled bicycle taxis, or pedicabs)—long since replaced by bicycles and motorbikes—can still be hired in tourist areas. Called pousse-pousse in French colonial times (literally, "push-push"), the driver sits and peddles behind the passengers. Susan Spano, "A Trio of French Colonial Sites in Hanoi," Smithsonian.com, 3 July 2012, https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/a-trio-of-french-colonial-sites-in-hanoi-278826/, Matthew Pike, "11 Ways France Influenced Vietnamese Culture," Culture Trip, updated 11 December 2017, https://theculturetrip.com/asia/vietnam/articles/11-ways-france-influenced-vietnamese-culture/, Worldwide Travellers, "An Introduction to Vietnam," in Vietnam: Where to Go, What to See: A Vietnam Travel Guide (Worldwide Travellers, 2017), loc. 28, Kindle. Owning a motorbike or scooter is a necessity for urban residents because of the limited public transportation options. While helmets are required by law, many fail to meet national safety standards. Motorbike taxis (xe om; literally, "hugging a motorbike"), are available on practically every street corner and have replaced the traditional bicycle. Although theoretically cheaper than regular taxis, xe om lack a meter, which can make them more expensive for those unfamiliar with the informal fare structure. Dana Filek-Gibson, "Taking a Xe Om in Vietnam," Moon (blog), 28 November 2015, https://moon.com/2015/11/xe-om-motorbike-taxi-vietnam/ Because xe om are unregulated and offer little protection, the U.S. State Department strongly discourages their use. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html Pedestrians should always look carefully in both directions before crossing Vietnam’s chaotic urban streets. Caution is advised even when using a crosswalk with a green "walk" light illuminated or when crossing what is believed to be a one-way street. Nina Karnikowski, "Vietnam Travel Tips: How to Cross the Street in Ho Chi Minh City," Traveller, 27 January 2017, http://www.traveller.com.au/road-worrier-how-to-cross-the-street-in-vietnam-gtxh9u Vietnamese often drive against traffic. When walking on sidewalks, be mindful of scooters behind you. Vietnamese commonly drive their scooters on sidewalks. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html, Iain Stewart et al., "Need to Know," in Vietnam 14th ed. (Lonely Planet Global Limited, August 2018), loc. 140–141, Kindle. Renting a Vehicle Driving in Vietnam is not comparable to driving in other countries: it is chaotic and dangerous. Awareness of basic traffic safety etiquette is low and driving under the influence is common and rarely prosecuted. The sheer volume of vehicles is intimidating to most international visitors, and traffic accidents are the leading cause of death in Vietnam. It is possible to rent a car or even a small motorbike or scooter in Vietnam. But visitors who stay less than 3 months and do not speak Vietnamese must hire a driver. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html Can you take me there? Visitor: ko doo-ah toy den dor dew-uk Khong? Can you take me there? Local: vang, toy doo-ah ko dee ngaay Yes, I will take you there right away. 22 International driving permits and U.S. drivers’ licenses are not valid in Vietnam. Foreigners who intend to operate a vehicle must obtain a Vietnamese license. City Pass Guide, "Renting a Car in Vietnam," updated 10 December 2018, https://www.citypassguide.com/en/travel/ho-chi-minh-city/activities/blog/renting-a-car-in-vietnam There are serious risks associated with driving without a Vietnamese license endorsed for the appropriate vehicle, be it a car, motorbike, or scooter, including fines, prosecution, or imprisonment. Additionally, drivers can be held liable for injuries to a victim in an accident. Foreign nationals deemed responsible for an accident by the police will be barred from leaving the country until compensation has been paid to the victims or their families. To obtain a Vietnamese driver’s license, visitors should contact the Provincial Public Transportation Service of the Vietnamese Department of Communications and Transport. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html, British Government, "Foreign Travel Advice: Vietnam: Safety and Security," accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/vietnam/safety-and-security Where can I rent a car? Visitor: toy kor theh thoo-eh sair oto uh dow? Where can I rent a car? Local: uh jorng tarng fo Downtown. 23 Is there a mechanic nearby? Visitor: kor thur maay uh gun day Khong? Is there a mechanic nearby? Local: kor Yes. 24 Gas stations are easy to find along major thoroughfares, as well as on the water for boat traffic. It is advisable to patronize stations that have new pumps with digital readouts, to verify how much gas has actually been put into the tank. Is there a gas station nearby? Visitor: kor tram sang uh gun daay Khong? Is there a gas station nearby? Local: kor Yes. 25 Health Care Vietnam’s government has made a concerted effort to raise basic health care standards over the last three decades. This has led to improved life expectancy and lower mortality rates. The government provides access to basic health care in urban and rural areas, and health insurance coverage reached 82% of the population in 2016. Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, Australian Government, "Economic Overview," DFAT Country Information Report Vietnam (21 June 2017), 5–7, https://dfat.gov.au/about-us/publications/Documents/country-information-report-vietnam.pdf. , Chi K. Hoang, Peter Hill, and Huong T. Nguyen, "Universal Health Insurance Coverage in Vietnam: A Stakeholder Analysis From Policy Proposal (1989) to Implementation (2014)," Journal of Public Health Management and Practice 24 (March/April 2018): S52–S59, https://doi.org/10.1097/PHH.0000000000000729 Those without insurance are vulnerable to the financial consequences of a serious illness. World Health Organization, "Media Release: Who Calls for Action to Achieve Health for All in Viet Nam," 7 April 2018, http://www.wpro.who.int/vietnam/mediacentre/releases/2018/WorldHealthDay2018/en/ In the last decade, the government has partly privatized its health-care system as a step toward providing better care. As a result, Vietnam meets 73% of the population’s health-care needs. In 2016, there were 1,346 hospitals in Vietnam, which included 1,161 public hospitals and 185 private hospitals. World Bank, "The World Bank in Vietnam," updated 5 October 2018, https://www.worldbank.org/en/country/vietnam/overview But overcrowding, shortage of medical staff, and obsolete equipment for surgery and intensive care units are challenges. Vietnamese who can afford it travel abroad for high-quality medical services. Export.gov, International Trade Administration, "Vietnam: Healthcare," updated 12 July 2018, https://www.export.gov/article?id=Vietnam-Healthcare, Hoang Van Minh et al., "Women’s Health and Health Care in Vietnam," Health Care for Women International 39, no. 4 (5 April 2018): 364–367, https://doi.org/10.1080/07399332.2018.1460143. Is there a hospital nearby? Visitor: kor beng veeyin uh gun daay Khong? Is there a hospital nearby? Local: kor, uh joong tarm tarng fo Yes, in the center of town. 26 Average life expectancy reached 76 years of age in 2016. Hoang Van Minh et al., "Women’s Health and Health Care in Vietnam," Health Care for Women International 39, no. 4 (5 April 2018): 364–367, https://doi.org/10.1080/07399332.2018.1460143, UNDP, "Human Development Indices and Indicators: Briefing Note for Countries in the 2018 Statistical Update: Vietnam," accessed 13 December 2018, 5, http://hdr.undp.org/sites/all/themes/hdr_theme/country-notes/VNM.pdf. Vietnamese men, however, have a relatively high prevalence of smoking and alcohol consumption, which contributes to lower life expectancy than Vietnamese women. Maternal mortality has decreased dramatically since 1990. For every 100,000 live births, 54 women died from pregnancy-related causes in 2015, compared to 223 in 1990. Hoang Van Minh et al., "Women’s Health and Health Care in Vietnam," Health Care for Women International 39, no. 4 (5 April 2018): 364–367, https://doi.org/10.1080/07399332.2018.1460143, UNDP, "Human Development Indices and Indicators: Briefing Note for Countries in the 2018 Statistical Update: Vietnam," accessed 13 December 2018, 5, http://hdr.undp.org/sites/all/themes/hdr_theme/country-notes/VNM.pdf. In the same period, infant mortality declined from 44 deaths per 1,000 live births to 15 (by comparison, it is 6 in the United States). Geoba.se, "The World: Infant Mortality Rate (2018)," accessed 13 December 2018, http://www.geoba.se/population.php?pc=world&type=019&year=2018&st=country&asde=d&page=1 Women still suffer from communicable diseases, especially reproductive tract problems and HIV/AIDS. Hoang Van Minh et al., "Women’s Health and Health Care in Vietnam," Health Care for Women International 39, no. 4 (5 April 2018): 364–367, https://doi.org/10.1080/07399332.2018.1460143 Do you know what is wrong? Visitor: ko beeyet kaay zee saay Khong? Do you know what is wrong? Local: kor ah Yes. (polite) 27 Access to better sanitation has improved people’s overall health. In 2016, 77% of the rural population had access to sanitation facilities, and 70% had access to clean water. In urban areas, access to these services is over 95%. World Bank, "The World Bank in Vietnam," updated 5 October 2018, https://www.worldbank.org/en/country/vietnam/overview Education Education is valued more than material wealth and success in Vietnam. An uneducated, rich person is considered inferior to an educated person who is poor. In the traditional Vietnamese social system, the scholar is at the top of the social hierarchy. Marsha E. Shapiro, "Asian Culture Brief: Vietnam," NTAC-AAPI Culture Brief Series, ed. David E. Starbuck (National Technical Assistance Center for Asian Americans and Pacific Islanders and Center for International Rehabilitation Research Information and Exchange at State University of New York at Buffalo), accessed 7 December 2018, 1–2, http://www.ntac.hawaii.edu/downloads/products/briefs/culture/pdf/ACB-Vol2-Iss5-Vietnam.pdf Almost all Vietnamese consider a good education the best avenue to success for their children. Many will sell what they have to pay for the best schools and tutoring. Dien Luong, "In Vietnam, Good Parenting Equals a Straight-A Kid, Plus an American Degree," VN Express International, 25 June 2017, https://e.vnexpress.net/projects/in-vietnam-good-parenting-equals-a-straight-a-kid-plus-an-american-degree-3604276/index.html Vietnam’s government has made a concerted effort to raise basic education and health care standards over the last three decades. This has led to improved adult literacy in rural and urban areas. World Bank, "The World Bank in Vietnam," updated 5 October 2018, https://www.worldbank.org/en/country/vietnam/overview The literacy rate of Vietnamese between 15 and 24 years old was 98% in 2015. Organisation for Economic Co-Operation and Development, "Key Issues Affecting Youth in Viet Nam," accessed 10 January 2019, http://www.oecd.org/dev/inclusivesocietiesanddevelopment/youth-issues-in-vietnam.htm, Stefan Trines, "Education in Vietnam," World Education News and Reviews, accessed 10 January 2019, https://wenr.wes.org/2017/11/education-in-vietnam Education in Vietnam is compulsory, universal, and tuition-free through primary school (age 11). Secondary schooling (high school) is not free. Most Vietnamese students have lessons from Monday through Saturday but for only half the day. Ayusa.org, "Vietnamese Student Life," accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.ayusa.org/sites/default/files/VIETNAMESE%20STUDENT%20LIFE.pdf, Just Landed, "The Vietnamese Education System: Structure and Reforms," accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.justlanded.com/english/Vietnam/Vietnam-Guide/Education/The-Vietnamese-education-system Additionally, families who can afford it pay for organized forms of supplementary study (di hoc them) within the formal education system (where teachers offer private tutoring) and outside of it (in the form of so-called cram schools). Hai-Anh H. Dang, "Private Tutoring in Vietnam A Review of Current Issues and Its Major Correlates" (policy research working paper 6618, Poverty and Inequality Team, World Bank Development Research Group, September 2013), 2, http://documents.worldbank.org/curated/en/241061468328828236/pdf/WPS6618.pdf. , Jeng Liu, "Does Cram Schooling Matter? Who Goes to Cram Schools? Evidence from Taiwan," International Journal of Educational Development 32, no. 1 (2012): 46–52, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijedudev.2011.01.014 The number of students going on to college is increasing: in 2015, 28% of Vietnamese studied at the college level. Rebecca Lee, "Higher Education in Vietnam Shows Steady Improvement," Borgen Project (blog), 10 March 2018, https://borgenproject.org/higher-education-in-vietnam/ At the same time, higher education opportunities are limited and regionally oriented. Just Landed, "Higher Education in Vietnam: Universities and Degrees," accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.justlanded.com/english/Vietnam/Vietnam-Guide/Education/Higher-education-in-Vietnam Most students in Hanoi choose a college in the capital, while those in the South select schools close to home. With 1 million students graduating from high school annually and places for fewer than 20% in existing programs, increasingly families send their children abroad to study. In 2016, 63,703 students studied in places such as China, India, and the United States. U.S. Embassy and Consulate, "Vietnamese Students in the United States Increase for 16th Straight Year," 14 November 2017, https://vn.usembassy.gov/vietnamese-students-united-states-increase-16th-straight-year/, World Education Services, "Education in Vietnam," 8 November 2017, https://wenr.wes.org/2017/11/education-in-vietnam State figures indicate that 15.5% of students aged 5–18 leave school early. School fees for textbooks, uniforms, and school maintenance services put education out of reach for many families. While ethnic-minority students are exempt from paying school fees under a government subsidy program, authorities do not always enforce the fee-waiver. Access to facilities is also a problem for ethnic minority children; many students are required to walk more than 10 km (6 mi) to reach the closest school. Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, Australian Government, "Economic Overview," DFAT Country Information Report Vietnam (21 June 2017), 7, https://dfat.gov.au/about-us/publications/Documents/country-information-report-vietnam.pdf. Restaurants and Dining Out Café culture in Vietnam is vibrant—from opulent terraces to sidewalks littered with people chatting around fold-out aluminum tables. In the South especially, there are cafés everywhere. Meals are leisurely affairs, with many shared dishes served all at once. A typical meal may include a light soup with vegetables, rice, grilled or steamed meats, a vegetable dish, fresh fruit and salad, all placed on the table at once. SBS, "About Vietnamese Food," updated 6 May 2015, https://www.sbs.com.au/food/article/2008/07/01/about-vietnamese-food Instead of cookies or cakes for dessert, a meal will usually finish with hot tea and a platter of local fruit. Banana, mango, dragon fruit (thanh long), pineapple, papaya, rambutan (a red fruit with a spiny rind), and lychee are some favorites. Erin Zimmer, "A Basic Introduction to Vietnamese Food," Serious Eats, accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.seriouseats.com/2013/01/a-basic-introduction-to-vietnamese-food.html May I have a glass of water? Visitor: chor toy mot lee nu-uk dew-uk Khong? May I have a glass of water? Local: vang, kor ngaay Yes, right away. 28 Vietnam’s legacy of French colonial heritage and American influence creates a cuisine with some offerings that are familiar to Western palates. It is easy in urban areas to find restaurants that serve Western-style breakfasts featuring fried eggs and French bread. Banh mi are available throughout the day. Isabelle Sudron, "Top 10 Traditional Vietnamese Dishes You Need to Try," Culture Trip, updated 18 January 2017, https://theculturetrip.com/asia/vietnam/articles/top-10-traditional-vietnamese-dishes-you-need-to-try/, Emily Monaco, "The French Influence on Vietnamese Cuisine," Epicure and Culture, 16 December 2015, https://epicureandculture.com/vietnamese-cuisine-french-influence/ Are you still serving breakfast? Visitor: ko varn korn fook voo deeyim tarm faay Khong? Are you still serving breakfast? Local: vang Yes. 29 I’d like some hot soup. Visitor: toy moon moot bat soop nong I’d like some hot soup. Local: vang Sure. 30 Most restaurants, particularly smaller private ones, will not list prices on their menus. It is advisable to ask for the prices before ordering, to avoid getting a padded bill after you have eaten and are not in a position to contest the charges. Be careful of restaurants that list prices in USD. When it is time for payment, payment may be asked for in Vietnamese dong with an unreasonably expensive exchange rate. TravelScams, "31 Most Common Scams in Vietnam," accessed 13 December 2018, https://travelscams.org/asia/common-tourist-scams-vietnam/ Do you have dessert? Visitor: ko kor morn jarng meeyen Khong? Do you have dessert? Local: kor, choong toy kor hwa quah: chueh, suwai, vah duar Yes, we have banana, mango, and pineapple. 31 Can I have my total bill, please? Visitor: seen ten tat kar teeyin arn koo-a toy? Can I have my total bill, please? Local: vang, zeer neeyin zoy Yes, of course. 32 For Vietnamese, splitting payment of the bill is a foreign concept. The person who organizes and invites the others customarily pays for everyone. Alternative arrangements will also be unfamiliar to restaurant staff and may require advance explanation. Travel Sense Asia, "Vietnamese Dining Etiquette: Best Things to Know," accessed 13 December 2018, http://www.travelsense.asia/vietnamese-dining-etiquette/ Tipping is not expected; you may leave 5–10% in an upscale restaurant, or if you are very satisfied. Locals do not tip. Iain Stewart et al., "Eat and Drink Like a Local," in Vietnam 14th ed. (Lonely Planet Global Limited, August 2018), loc. 463, Kindle., KulturStudier, "An Introduction to Vietnamese Etiquette: The Dos and Don’ts," updated September 2018, 7, https://www.kulturstudier.com/m/files/Dev_1/Etiquette.pdf. Can you put this all on one bill? Visitor: ko tink tut kar vaw mot hwa dirn dew-uk Khong? Can you put this all on one bill? Local: dew-uk Okay. 33 In Vietnam, keeping food and drink on hand for visitors is a widely shared social value. This extends to business meetings when tea is served. Lavish restaurant meals may be included, and afterward, the attendees may sing karaoke in an establishment that offers private rooms for small groups. Travel Sense Asia, "Vietnamese Dining Etiquette: Best Things to Know," accessed 13 December 2018, http://www.travelsense.asia/vietnamese-dining-etiquette/ I would like some coffee or tea. Visitor: toy moon kar-fee haay nu-uk cher I would like some coffee or tea. Local: vang Sure. 34 Where is your restroom? Visitor: nar vee sink uh dow? Where is your restroom? Local: nar vee sink uh ben jaay koo-a ko, uh darng keeya keeya That room to your left, over there. 35 Vietnamese have a term for snacking (an qua) that literally means "eating a gift in the form of a savory morsel." Grab-and-go snacks (an choi) are widely available from street vendors. Popular convenience snacks include banh trang nuong, grilled rice paper filled with onions, pork, and other ingredients. Neil Simpson, "17 Street-Food Snacks You Have to Try in Vietnam," Suitcase Magazine, 18 January 2018, https://suitcasemag.com/travel/explore/vietnam-street-food/ Foods made exclusively from fresh ingredients pose a substantially lower health risk than foods prepared elsewhere that may have sat in the hot sun. Risyiana Muthia, "Vietnam: 48 Hours in Hanoi: The Best Vietnamese Street Food to Eat for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner," South China Morning Post, updated 21 June 2018, https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/travel-leisure/article/2151617/48-hours-hanoi-best-vietnamese-street-food-eat-breakfast What type of meat is this? Visitor: day lar teet zee? What type of meat is this? Local: teet lun Pork. 36 Marketplace Street markets are an intrinsic part of Vietnamese culture. Because of the country’s diverse history and the different cultures found in each region, local markets have their own set of distinct characteristics. In larger cities, markets are open and crowded with visitors late into the night. Locals on scooters may stop to window shop. In the Mekong Delta, floating markets are popular. Vendors operate on the river, with goods and services displayed on boats. When at the market, locals greet, haggle, and talk to one another, as the market is not only a place for shopping but also one where locals go to socialize. Phan Len, "4 Best Types of Vietnam Local Markets You Should Visit," Local Insider (blog), 1 November 2017, https://blog.inspitrip.com/5441/4-types-vietnam-local-markets/ Retail commerce in Vietnam is overwhelmingly dominated by female merchants, and most shoppers are women. In the Confucian mindset, trade was relegated to the realm of immoral activities to be conducted outside the village gate. Sellers were seen as inherently dishonest because they had to convince buyers to pay more for an item than it cost. Therefore, selling was not seen as a suitable line of work for men. Haggling over the price of essential goods fell to female members of the family. Ly Nguyen, "Capability Approach to Street Vendors in Vietnam: Evaluation of Current Situation" (paper, School of Public Policy, University of Maryland, 5 August 2012), 1, https://hd-ca.org/?s2member_file_download_key=bb120af5ec0237938c1d43d88607918b&s2member_file_download=/Nguyen-Capability_Approach_to_Evaluating_Policy_towards_Street_Vendors-475_a.pdf Do you sell embroidered tablecloths and napkins? Visitor: ko kor barn bo Kharn bahn vah kharn arn tay-oo Khong? Do you sell embroidered tablecloths and napkins? Local: kor Yes. 37 May I examine this close up? Visitor: toy sem kee kaay naay dew-uk Khong? May I examine this close up? Local: dew-uk Sure. 38 Bargaining is a way of life in Vietnam. Before bargaining, make sure to confirm the currency. Vietnamese typically hold up fingers to get around the language barrier. One finger can mean either 1 USD or a 10,000 dong banknote (approximately 50 cents in USD). Some visitors have assumed they were bargaining in dong only to learn it was dollars—after the price had been agreed on and the merchant considered the deal complete. Worldwide Travellers, "5 Major Cities Worth a Visit," in Vietnam: Where to Go, What to See: A Vietnam Travel Guide (Worldwide Travellers, 2017), loc. 63, Kindle. With this much money, can I buy an ao ba ba? Visitor: vu-ee so teeyen naay toy moo-a dew-uk mot kaay ow bar bar Khong? With this much money, can I buy an ao ba ba? Local: vang Yes. 39 Do you accept U.S. currency? Visitor: ko kor nun dolar Mee Khong? Do you accept U.S. currency? Local: Khong, choong toy chee nun teeyin vyet naam No, we only accept Vietnamese dongs. 40 Always maintain a friendly demeanor and only enter into protracted negotiations if you genuinely wish to purchase the item. Touching something will indicate to the vendor that you are interested in buying it. It is important to carry small bills, since merchants may not be able to give change for a bill larger than a 20,000 dong (approximately 1 USD). Vietnam Visa, "The Ultimate Guide to Shopping in Vietnam," accessed 13 December 2018, https://vietnamvisa.govt.vn/vietnam-travel-tips/the-ultimate-guide-to-shopping-in-vietnam/ Can you give me change for this? Visitor: ko doee teeyen cho toy dew-uk Khong Can you give me change for this? Local: Khong No. 41 There are countless markets in Ho Chi Minh City, but the most famous is the Ben Thanh Market, one of the city’s historic landmarks. When visitors inquire about shopping, they are usually taken to this market, which includes a food court. An Dong market is the city’s biggest market; its four floors are crowded with a maze of colorful stalls, the majority smaller than 1.5 m (5 ft) in width. Shopping at these markets can be overwhelming as they are chaotic and typically have a vast selection of items: souvenirs, accessories, and clothing, as well as electronic and household appliances. In the case of apparel, shoppers can often buy fabric from merchants in one part of the market and take it to a tailor located in another. Piumi Rajapaksha, "The 5 Best Markets in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam," Culture Trip, updated 7 June 2018, https://theculturetrip.com/asia/vietnam/articles/top-5-markets-in-ho-chi-minh-city/, Lonely Planet, "Vietnam: Asia: Vietnam’s Best Markets," accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam/things-to-do/vietnam-s-best-markets Is the market nearby? Visitor: kor chur uh gun daay Khong? Is the market nearby? Local: kor, uh darng keeya, ben faay Yes, over there on the right. 42 Do you have any more of these? Visitor: ko korn kaay naay nuwa Khong? Do you have any more of these? Local: Khong No. 43 How much longer will you be here? Visitor: ko sair uh daay bow lo nuwa? How much longer will you be here? Local: bar teeying doong ho nuwa Three more hours. 44 Beggars and Hawkers Street trade is an essential part of city life in Vietnam. It is difficult to step outside in any city without eliciting interest from street vendors. Merchants plying everything from transportation to fruit and freshly baked bread, which women in Hanoi carry in baskets on their heads, are too numerous to avoid completely. Laura Mallonee, "Bike Couriers Got Nothing on These Vietnamese Street Vendors," Wired, accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.wired.com/2016/11/bike-couriers-got-nothing-vietnamese-street-vendors/ Periodically, city administrators in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City will crack down on sidewalk vendors and the encroachment by shops into public space. Hoang Phuong, Hong Phuc, and Duc Hoang, "To Street Vendors in Vietnam’s Biggest Cities, Sidewalk Is a Lifeline," Viet Nam Express International, 26 April 2018, https://e.vnexpress.net/news/news/to-street-vendors-in-vietnam-s-biggest-cities-sidewalk-is-a-lifeline-3741263.html Please, buy something from me. Local: seen moo-a harng koo-a toy Please, buy something from me. Visitor: seen loy, toy Khong korn teeyin Sorry, I have no money left. 45 In addition, there are beggars and hawkers. The former include those with visible war-related injuries, such as amputees. The latter are typically male adolescents who present government-issued cards stating they are orphans—in reality, street kids—who are allowed to hawk postcards and other souvenir paraphernalia at whatever price buyers are willing to pay. Do not engage them in negotiation if you do not wish to make the purchase, because they may become aggressive if you decide you do not want the item. Viet Nam News, "HCMC to Move Homeless to Shelters, Provide Jobs," 25 December 2014, https://vietnamnews.vn/society/264482/hcmc-to-move-homeless-to-shelters-provide-jobs.html There are fewer beggars on Vietnam’s streets today than there were 20 years ago. City governments will typically move anyone reported as begging into a shelter, and if they are not from Vietnam, deport them. May Titthara, "Begging for Survival in Saigon," Phnom Penh Post, 4 October 2011, https://www.phnompenhpost.com/national/begging-survival-saigon Give me money. Local: chor toy teeyin Give me money. Visitor: toy Khong kor teeyin I don't have any. 46 Street Crime and Safety Visitors to Vietnamese cities, especially Ho Chi Minh City, report encounters with motorcycle purse-snatching gangs, in which the passenger grabs the belongings of pedestrians while the driver weaves in and out of traffic. A similar tactic is used to steal from passengers riding in cyclos or on the back of motorcycles: thieves will sometimes use a sharp weapon such as a knife to cut bag straps. Those out shopping are particularly at risk since it can be presumed they have cash on hand. Metropolitan authorities periodically crack down because such tales deter international tourists from visiting. Reasonable precautions should suffice to prevent becoming a victim of crime. Do not carry unnecessary items that might give thieves the idea that a bag contains something of value. Keep a secure hold on your possessions at all times when out in public. Be aware of your surroundings when withdrawing money from an ATM. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory: Safety and Security," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html, Foreign and Commonwealth Office, United Kingdom, "Foreign Travel Advice: Vietnam: Safety and Security," accessed 13 December 2018, https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/vietnam/safety-and-security In 2017, the Safe Cities Index of the Economist Intelligence Unit ranked Ho Chi Minh City the third least-safe city in the world, after Caracas and Karachi. Mai Nguyen, "Knight Riders to the Rescue: Vietnam Vigilantes Bust Crooks," Reuters, 31 May 2018, https://www.reuters.com/article/us-vietnam-crime-knights/knight-riders-to-the-rescue-vietnam-vigilantes-bust-crooks-idUSKCN1IX3OZ, Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, "Vietnam: Travel Advisory: Safety and Security: Crime," 10 January 2018, https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Vietnam.html