Introduction As of 2010, approximately 32% of the Yemeni population lived in urban areas. Central Intelligence Agency, “Yemen,” in The World Factbook, 29 November 2012, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ym.html Although the population remains predominantly rural, rapid urbanization over the last several decades has produced a large-scale demographic shift. In 1975, approximately 90% of Yemenis lived in rural areas. Urbanization has been fueled by several trends since then, including rural-to-urban migration and rapid population growth. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 28, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf The population of Sanaa, for example, has expanded from about 135,000 people in 1975 to more than 2.3 million today. IRIN, “Yemen: Rapid Urbanisation Threatening Capital’s Water Supplies,” 14 August 2007, http://ww.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=73716 With a high urban growth rate (averaging 4.6% estimated from 2010–2015), this trend is expected to continue. Moreover, the country’s high population growth rate of 2.9% (average from 2005–2010) will increase Yemen’s population of 23.6 million (2009) in coming years. UNFPA, “Demographic, Social and Economic Indicators,” in State of World Population 2009: Facing a Changing World: Women, Population and Climate (report, UN Population Fund, 2009), 90, http://www.unfpa.org/swp/2009/en/pdf/EN_SOWP09.pdf Rapid population growth is a serious concern in Yemen, where farmers face increasing difficulties in supporting their families. Lack of access to water—for either consumption or crop cultivation—has become a common cause for migration from the countryside to the city. Jen Alic, “As Yemen’s Water Runs Dry, al-Qaida Runs Rampant,” OilPrice, 3 May 2012, http://oilprice.com/Geopolitics/Middle-East/As-Yemens-Water-Runs-Dry-al-Qaida-Runs-Rampant.html Yet the influx of rural migrants to cities has exacerbated pressure on urban infrastructure and resources, in particular water. Sanaa could run out of water by 2025, or even earlier, if the depletion of local aquifers continues at the current rate. Zaid al-Alaya’a, “Water Expert: Sana’a Basin to Drain Away by 2025,” Yemen Observer, 8 August 2009, http://www.yobserver.com/environment/10017024.html The government has a limited role in allocating water since many pumps are in private hands. Peter Salisbury, “Yemen’s Water Woes,” Foreign Policy, 30 August 2012, http://mideast.foreignpolicy.com/posts/2012/08/30/yemens_water_woes Government officials have speculated that Yemen’s capital city could become “a ghost town” when residents are forced to find water elsewhere. IRIN, “Yemen: Rapid Urbanisation Threatening Capital’s Water Supplies,” 14 August 2007, http://ww.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=73716 In response, urban planners have suggested raising the cost of living to deter new arrivals. IRIN, “Yemen: Alarm Bells over Water,” 14 August 2008, http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=79819 Since many migrants seek work in the unregulated informal economy, it is unclear whether such a move would deter migration. At the same time, many urban residents remain closely linked to the rural economy. Migrants may return to rural areas for seasonal agricultural work or send their earnings to their families in their village. Some landowning urban residents derive a significant portion of their income from their holdings or interests in the countryside. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 22–33, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf Urban Conditions Urban Livelihoods Unlike most rural areas, many Yemeni cities offer a range of occupations and services. The development of a diversified cash economy in urban areas allows greater economic mobility among the population. This trend erodes Yemen’s traditional social hierarchy by raising the status of market and service positions, which were formerly low status positions. A low-status individual from a rural village, for example, might be able to make a new life for himself and his family by moving to a city. Although mobility has increased, economic and occupational status differences remain pronounced in urban areas. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 12–13, 28–33, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf Exchange 21: Did you grow up here?
Soldier: anta trabeyt haanaa?
(Did you grow up here?)
Local: ma'
(No.)
Public sector jobs are among the most sought after in urban areas, where the central government typically maintains a presence and some level of authority (in contrast to rural regions). These positions are desirable because they provide a stable income. Yet knowing someone in power with whom a job seeker can claim shared affiliation, whether it be familial, tribal, or political, is often crucial to being hired. Even those who land such jobs often must seek additional work to supplement their low salaries. Civil servants, for example, moonlight as taxi drivers. Abdul Rahim al-Showthabi and Moneer al-Omari, “Old Taxi Drivers Complain of Competition from Big Officials,” Yemen Post, 2 June 2008, http://www.yemenpost.net/32/Reports/20083.htm Most families remain reliant on male breadwinners. The majority of females in urban areas perform unpaid labor on behalf of their households, such as waiting in line to purchase cooking oil, a task that can take hours when there is a shortage. Paul Stephens, “Yemen Economy Bullish, But Where’s the Money?” GlobalPost, 16 March 2010, http://www.globalpost.com/dispatch/middle-east/100302/yemen-economy-bullish Social prohibitions restrict women from joining the formal workforce. Moneer al-Omari, “Most Yemeni Women Work in Unpaid Jobs; Women’s Unemployment on Rise,” Yemen Post, 5 July 2009, http://www.yemenpost.net/Detail123456789.aspx?ID=100&SubID=1006&MainCat=5 Housing and Living Conditions Although the traditional social hierarchy has eroded to some extent, a widening gap has emerged between a small class of wealthy urban elites and a large class of working or underemployed poor. This divide is evident in urban settlement patterns. Most Yemeni cities have a busy and densely inhabited old city center surrounded by modern suburbs and sprawl, including industrial areas and shantytowns. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 2,31, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf In 2007, the United Nations estimated that approximately 77% of Yemen’s urban residents live in mahwa, commonly translated as either slums or shantytowns. Millennium Development Goals Indicators, “Series Data: Slum Population as Percentage of Urban, Percentage,” 2012, http://mdgs.un.org/unsd/mdg/SeriesDetail.aspx?srid=710 Such a household is defined as “a group of individuals living under the same roof lacking one or more of the following conditions: access to improved water; access to improved sanitation; sufficient living area; durability of housing.” Millennium Development Goals Indicators, “Series Data: Slum Population as Percentage of Urban, Percentage,” 2012, http://mdgs.un.org/unsd/mdg/Metadata.aspx?IndicatorId=0&SeriesId=710 Less than half of all urban households are linked to public water distribution systems. IRIN, “Yemen: Rapid Urbanisation Threatening Capital’s Water Supplies,” 14 August 2007, http://ww.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=73716 Lacking direct access to the municipal water supply, a large percentage of urban residents buy their water from privately owned tanker trunks that tap wells in the surrounding region. This is especially true in Sanaa. Those who cannot afford to buy water fill buckets at public spigots, usually at mosques, and carry them home, sometimes over long distances. Haley Sweetland Edwards, “Yemen Water Crisis Builds,” Los Angeles Times, 11 October 2009, http://articles.latimes.com/2009/oct/11/world/fg-yemen-water11 Most homes that are not linked to the water system also lack sewer service. For those who can afford them, homes in newer housing developments in the suburbs have both water and sewer systems. But slum residents often live in makeshift structures built from low-cost or found materials. IRIN, “Yemen: Residents of Sanaa Slum Battle Disease, Lack of Water,” 3 January 2008, http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=76075 Without functional toilets and water for basic hygiene, residents of slums face serious health complications because of a lack of sanitation. IRIN, “Yemen: Residents of Sanaa Slum Battle Disease, Lack of Water,” 3 January 2008, http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=76075 Members of the hereditary underclass known as the Akhdam (servants) are disproportionately represented among mahwa dwellers. (The term Akhdam has been increasingly used by some Yemenis to label all residents of shantytowns.) World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 31, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf Subject to unfounded rumors about their heritage and practices, Akhdam continue to face discrimination and persecution. Since few hold title to the land on which they built their homes, often little more than huts, they cannot claim municipal services afforded, in theory, to other city residents. These include essential public goods such as water, sanitation, and police protection. Although both Islamic and Yemeni civil law accord ownership of unoccupied land to settlers, the low social status of the Akhdam—who sometimes refer to themselves as muhamasheen, or marginalized ones, and focus on daily survival—makes it hard for them to collectively press their case. Urban Health Updates, “Ancient Class System Haunts Yemeni Shantytowns,” 24 August 2009, http://urbanhealthupdates.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/ancient-class-system-haunts-yemeni-shantytowns/ In 2008, an American journalist described the conditions of an Akhdam shantytown on the outskirts of Sanaa: “ . . . more than 7,000 people live crammed into a stinking warren of low concrete blocks next to a mountain of trash. Young children, many of them barefoot, run through narrow, muddy lanes full of human waste and garbage.” Robert F. Worth, “Languishing at the Bottom of Yemen’s Ladder,” New York Times, 27 February 2008, http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/27/world/middleeast/27yemen.html Telecommunications Yemen’s telecommunications infrastructure and capabilities are relatively limited. The country has a small number of landline telephone connections: 1.1 million in 2011. Landline service has been outpaced by the rapid growth of the mobile phone industry. As of 2011, the country had an estimated 11.7 million mobile or cellular phone users. Central Intelligence Agency, “Yemen,” in The World Factbook, 14 November 2012, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ym.html This is up from around 2 million in 2006. Federal Research Division, Library of Congress, “Country Profile: Yemen,” August 2008, 17, http://memory.loc.gov/frd/cs/profiles/Yemen.pdf Exchange 22: What is your telephone number?
Soldier: kam ragm talafonak?
(What is your telephone number?)
Local: talafonee sab'a sita Khamsa arba'a thalaatha ithneyn
(My phone number is 765-432.)
Many Yemenis remain too poor to purchase either a landline or mobile phone, and many live in areas where such service is unavailable. Federal Research Division, Library of Congress, “Country Profile: Yemen,” August 2008, 17, http://memory.loc.gov/frd/cs/profiles/Yemen.pdf Urban areas have greater wireless coverage than rural regions. During times of unrest, the government may cut cell phone service to prevent the spread of information by those challenging state authority. This happened in the south, where there is a secessionist movement, in March 2010. Yemen Post, “As Crackdown on Rioters Continues, Yemen Cuts Cell Phone Service in South,” 9 March 2010, http://www.yemenpost.net/Detail123456789.aspx?ID=3&SubID=1955 Exchange 23: May I use your phone?
Soldier: mumkin astaKhdim talafonak?
(May I use your phone?)
Local: tafadHal
(Sure.)
Internet connectivity remains limited, because of a lack of infrastructure and clientele. Most Yemenis are also too poor to afford computers and related equipment. As of 2009, the country had 2.4 million internet users. Central Intelligence Agency, “Yemen,” in The World Factbook, 4 February 2010, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ym.html Urban areas house local television and radio stations, which are controlled by the state. Federal Research Division, Library of Congress, “Country Profile: Yemen,” August 2008, 20, http://memory.loc.gov/frd/cs/profiles/Yemen.pdf Less than half (43%) of Yemeni households have a television. eStandardsForum, Financial Standards Foundation, “Country Brief: Yemen,” 13 October 2009, 13, http://www.estandardsforum.org/system/briefs/330/original/brief-Yemen.pdf?1257782049 Wealthy Yemenis might have satellite service. Encyclopædia Britannica Online, “Yemen: Economy: Transportation and Telecommunications,” 2012, http://search.eb.com/eb/article-45262 Healthcare Yemen’s healthcare system is underdeveloped and poor in both coverage and quality. The country lacks sufficient healthcare personnel and facilities. Nationwide, there are only 3 doctors and 7 hospital beds for every 10,000 Yemenis. While professional medical attention is often unavailable in rural areas, approximately 80% of urban areas are, in theory, covered by health services. World Health Organization, “Countries: Yemen,” September 2012, http://www.who.int/countries/yem/en/ Yet the quality of such care is often poor and access is uneven. Ambulance service and blood banks, which require refrigeration, are extremely limited. Federal Research Division, Library of Congress, “Country Profile: Yemen,” August 2008, 7–8, http://memory.loc.gov/frd/cs/profiles/Yemen.pdf Exchange 24: Is there a hospital nearby?
Soldier: beh mustashfa gareeb min haanaa?
(Is there a hospital nearby?)
Local: na'am bi-wasaT al-madeena
(Yes, in the center of town.)
Yemen has private, semiprivate, and public (government run) healthcare facilities. Although public facilities are designed to provide less expensive treatment than private hospitals, corruption is said to be rampant at such facilities. Mismanagement and low salaries compel medical staff to charge unofficial fees for services. Moreover, “patients must wait a long time to be seen in emergency rooms. Once diagnosed, they are immediately sent out to buy their own drugs from pharmacies.” Abdul Rahim al-Showthabi, “The Poor Ponder at Saleh’s Mosque,” Yemen Post, 26 January 2009, http://www.yemenpost.net/65/Reports/20081.htm Those who lack the means to pay simply forgo treatment. Preference is given to wealthier patients and those who have social ties with staff or important public figures. Hakim Almasmari, “Government Hospitals Suffer Under Widespread Corruption and Mismanagement, Study Says,” Yemen Post, 7 July 2008, http://www.yemenpost.net/37/Health/20081.htm Some public facilities operate as low-cost public providers in the morning but function as “for-profit, fee-for-service” facilities in the afternoon. The conditions and quality of medical personnel at these hospitals are notoriously poor, frequently resulting in misdiagnoses and unnecessary deaths. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 45–46, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf Exchange 25: Is Dr. al-Sanhani in?
Soldier: ad-daktor as-sanHaanee mawjood?
(Is Dr. al-Sanhani in?)
Local: na'am
(Yes.)
The best care is found at modern facilities in Yemen’s two major cities, Sanaa and Aden. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, “Yemen: Country Specific Information,” 19 February 2010, http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1061.html But private facilities are relatively high-cost and remain too expensive for most Yemenis. Moreover, the quality of service remains mediocre or even poor by international standards. As a result, Yemenis who can afford to travel abroad for healthcare, especially for serious issues, typically do so. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 45–46, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf Exchange 26: Do you know what is wrong?
Soldier: anta daaree eysh haSal?
(Do you know what is wrong?)
Local: na'am
(Yes.)
Inequities in Healthcare Unequal access to basic medical care is a serious problem in urban areas, where poverty and lack of sanitation and clean drinking water contribute to the spread of sickness and disease. Diarrhea, flu, measles, malaria, and meningitis are widespread in slums. IRIN, “Yemen: Residents of Sanaa Slum Battle Disease, Lack of Water,” 3 January 2008, http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=76075 In addition to malnutrition and acute respiratory infections, these illnesses contribute to the country’s high rates of infant and child mortality. IRIN, “Yemen: New Drive to Reduce Child Mortality,” 5 October 2009, http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=86442 Diarrhea alone is responsible for “20–25% of the 84,000 annual deaths among children under five” in Yemen. IRIN, “Yemen: Drive to Promote Handwashing, Reduce Child Mortality Rates,” 20 October 2008, http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=81001 According to Yemeni law, all children are entitled to free medical care. Yet this law is not matched by the necessary financial resources. Many children do not receive standard childhood immunizations. Male children are said to receive better care because of traditional gender preferences in Yemeni society. Bureau of Democracy, Human Rights, and Labor, U.S. Department of State, “Yemen,” in 2008 Country Reports on Human Rights Practices, 25 February 2012, http://www.state.gov/j/drl/rls/hrrpt/2011/nea/186455.htm Neonatal mortality rates and maternal mortality rates are also high because of poor prenatal care. The young age at which many Yemeni women, particularly adolescents, deliver their first child contributes to these high rates. Jim Lobe, “Most At-Risk Mothers? Girls Having Children,” Choike, 4 May 2009, http://www.choike.org/2009/eng/informes/1879.html Skilled medical professionals attend only 36% of births (2006) in Yemen. World Health Organization, “Countries: Yemen,” September 2012, http://www.who.int/countries/yem/en/ Women suffer from the lack of trained female health professionals, who—unlike male physicians—can treat women while respecting Islamic gender boundaries. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf Education According to the law, education is free, compulsory, and universal for all Yemeni children ages 6–15. This includes both primary and secondary schooling, for a total of 9 years. Logistically, it is easier for urban residents to enroll. Federal Research Division, Library of Congress, “Country Profile: Yemen,” August 2008, http://memory.loc.gov/frd/cs/profiles/Yemen.pdf Here too, the government does not enforce its own laws. Associated fees for books and uniforms, along with incidental expenses, often prevent poor children from attending even if there is a school close by. Bureau of Democracy, Human Rights, and Labor, U.S. Department of State, “Yemen,” in 2011 Country Reports on Human Rights Practices, 24 May 2012, http://www.state.gov/j/drl/rls/hrrpt/2011/nea/186455.htm Access to education is uneven and heavily dependent on family income. Although children of wealthy families can attend private schools that provide higher-quality education, poorer children often cannot attend even low-quality public school. They frequently must cut short attendance to work, either around the house if they are girls or in the informal sector if they are boys. Jeffrey Fleishman, “In Yemen, Tribal Tradition Trumps Education,” Los Angeles Times, 24 December 2009, http://articles.latimes.com/2009/dec/24/world/la-fg-yemen-school24-2009dec24 A 2006 survey revealed that 46% of primary-school age children in Yemen were not enrolled in school. IRIN, “Yemen: Concern over Increasing Number of School Dropouts,” 27 November 2007, http://www.irinnews.org/report.aspx?ReportID=75528 Potential pupils can also be turned away for poor hygiene, an endemic problem for those whose families lack access to water. Urban Health Updates, “Ancient Class System Haunts Yemeni Shantytowns,” 24 August 2009, http://urbanhealthupdates.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/ancient-class-system-haunts-yemeni-shantytowns/ Gender Gap The starkest gap in access to education is by gender. Girls have substantially lower rates of enrollment and attendance than boys, with the gender gap increasing from one educational level to the next. For example, while approximately 75% of boys regularly attend primary school, only 64% of girls do so. UNICEF, “At a Glance: Yemen: Statistics,” 2012, http://www.unicef.org/infobycountry/yemen_statistics.html This trend is fueled by traditional views and practices that mandate the segregation of the sexes and the seclusion of women to the home. A lack of female teachers and girls-only schools prevents many young female students from attending. Child brides may be ineligible to attend school since they presumably possess sexual knowledge that could be corrupting to their female classmates. Nor would the families they married into likely see much benefit to the household in their continued schooling. Education is more highly valued for males because girls are expected to limit their activities to the home. Such practices contribute to a wide gap in literacy rates between adult men (76%) and women (39%). World Economic Forum, “Global Gender Gap Report 2009: Yemen” (Geneva, 2009), http://www.weforum.org/pdf/gendergap2009/Yemen.pdf Literacy rates among urban women (59.5%) are significantly higher than those of rural women (24%). IRIN, “Yemen: Female Education Remains Key Challenge,” 6 September 2007, http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=74159 Urban areas are home to Yemen’s higher educational facilities, such as the University of Sanaa, University of Aden, and their satellite schools. Yemeni students from wealthy families often study abroad. Encyclopædia Britannica Online, “Yemen: Government and Society: Education,” 2012, http://search.eb.com/eb/article-45267 Access to higher education is limited because of poverty and the poor quality and availability of lower-level education. As a result, less than 6% of Yemeni students enroll at the college or university level. Moreover, the quality of higher education is often poor. Bo-Madyan Kahtan, “Less Than 6% Make It to College,” Yemen Post, 18 February 2008, http://www.yemenpost.net/17/Reports/1.htm Because of the country’s weak economy, employment opportunities are scarce even for college graduates, many of whom become job seekers. World Bank, “Republic of Yemen: Country Social Analysis” (report, Water, Environment, Social and Rural Development Department, Middle East and North Africa, 11 January 2006), 42–44, http://siteresources.worldbank.org/BOLIVIA/Resources/Yemen_CSA.pdf Daily Life Bath Houses A feature of urban areas is the public bath house, or hamam. Although found throughout the Arab world, these facilities are a necessity in a country in which running water is not widely available in homes. Hamam allow Yemenis to bathe for purposes of hygiene and Islamic custom (ritual purity). Bath houses are also important social centers for Yemenis, especially women. There are hamams for men and those for women. Large ones have two separate sections with a hidden entrance for the women’s section. Women gather at the hamam to wash and purify themselves through scrubbing, hair removal, and steaming. Bath house attendants assist in the process, which involves vigorous scrubbing of the skin with rough pads. Patrons use the time for conversation and socializing. For some women, this may be one of the few opportunities during the week to socialize with female friends outside the home. Nadia al-Sakkaf, Yemen Times, “Hamam Al-Hana: Entertainment and a Good Scrub,” ProQuest, 1 December 2008, http://search.proquest.com/docview/429802527?accountid=145230 Restaurants Yemen’s major cities have a variety of restaurants and food vendors, including some international chains. Dining establishments are busiest during lunch, the most important meal of the day. They typically close for the afternoon—during the daily qat chew—but reopen for dinner. During Ramadan, the holy month during which Muslims fast, restaurants are closed throughout the day but open after dusk for large, fast-breaking meals known as iftar. In Yemen, restaurants often have two sections: a private family section, where women and children eat with their male relatives, and a public section that is limited to male patrons. The male section is commonly on the first floor of the restaurant, with the family section located upstairs. Anthony Ham and Frances Linzee Gordon, “Food and Drink,” in Lonely Planet: Arabian Peninsula. (Footscray, Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 2004), 60. Foreign women might sit in the family section, if they feel uncomfortable in the male section. Yemen College of Middle Eastern Studies, “Yemeni Culture: Food Etiquette,” 2009 Restaurants usually have sinks for customers to wash their hands, as food is typically eaten without utensils. Diners may sit around tables or on carpeted floors. Exchange 27: May I have a glass of water?
Soldier: mumkin tideenee galaS maa?
(May I have a glass of water?)
Local: na'am fi al-Haal
(Yes, right away.)
Visitors should take care to drink only bottled water and avoid tap water and iced drinks. Fruit juices sold by street vendors might contain tap water. Exchange 28: I would like tea.
Soldier: ishtee shaahee
(I would like tea.)
Local: na'am
(Yes.)
Tea, a common beverage, is usually served sweet. Yemenis typically eat light breakfasts consisting of tea (shay) and bread with eggs and/or beans. Exchange 29: Are you still serving breakfast?
Soldier: 'aad beh faToor?
(Are you still serving breakfast?)
Local: na'am
(Yes.)
Lunch often begins with a bowl of meat broth known as marag (maraq). Daniel McLaughlin, “Chapter 2: Eating and Drinking,” in Yemen (Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 2007), 55. Exchange 30: I’d like some hot soup.
Soldier: ishtee marag Haamee
(I’d like some hot soup.)
Local: HaaDhir
(Sure.)
Common types of meat are chicken, goat, and lamb. Kebabs, or grilled meat chunks, are typical of Yemeni street fare. The most common lunchtime meal is known as saltah, a spicy meat stew often described as Yemen’s national dish. Exchange 31: What type of meat is this?
Soldier: eysh min shirka teeyeh?
(What type of meat is this?)
Local: ghanamee
(Lamb.)
Yemeni desserts are typically flavored with honey. A favorite is known as bint al-sahn, which is a layered pastry. Exchange 32: Do you have a dessert?
Soldier: beh 'indakum shee niHalee beh?
(Do you have a dessert?)
Local: na'am beh 'indana bint aS-SaHan
(Yes, we have bint al- sahen.)
Coffee is commonly served after the meal. Regular coffee (bunn or qahwa) can be expensive for the average Yemeni. A cheaper and more common variety, known as qishr, is brewed from coffee husks rather than beans. Exchange 33: I would like coffee.
Soldier: ishtee gah-wa
(I would like coffee.)
Local: HaaDhir
(Sure.)
In Yemen, one person pays the bill for the entire party, although diners typically fight to have their money accepted first. As credit card service is limited, cash is the required form of payment. Tipping is not common practice in Yemen, although it may be expected at hotels and restaurants catering to tourists and wealthy patrons. Restaurant bills may instead include a service charge. In accordance with Islamic law, the consumption of alcohol is highly restricted in Yemen. Sales are typically limited to upscale hotels. Public consumption and intoxication are strictly prohibited. Marketplace The traditional marketplace in Yemen is known as the souk, or bazaar, and is open Sunday through Thursday from 8 a.m.–9 p.m. with an extended afternoon break. Independent News Daily, Yemen Blog, “Souks in Yemen,” 3 October 2009, http://yementribune.com/blog/?p=456 Typically located in the historic city center district, these open-air markets contain numerous individual shops, stalls, and vendors. A wide variety of goods are available, including food, crafts, souvenirs, and consumer products. Exchange 34: Is the bazaar nearby?
Soldier: hal as-soog gareeb min haanaa?
(Is the bazaar nearby?)
Local: na'am, haanaa 'ala al-yameen
(Yes, over there on the right.)
The central market in Sanaa is known as the Souk al-Milh, or Salt Market. Anthony Ham and Frances Linzee Gordon. “San’a,” in Lonely Planet: Arabian Peninsula (Footscray, Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 2004), 375–76. Located in old Sanaa, it is made up of roughly 40 smaller markets that each specialize in a certain product, such as spices, produce, qat, jewelry, or carpets. Khaled ad-Dhababi, “Traditional Souks in Yemen,” Islamic Tourism 13 (September–October 2004), http://islamictourism.com/PDFs/Issue%2013/English/64%20yemen%202p.pdf One of the most common products at any souk is the jambiya, a curved dagger widely worn by Yemeni men. Exchange 35: Do you sell jambiya?
Soldier: bitbee' janaabey?
(Do you sell jambiya?)
Local: na'am
(Yes.)
No Excessive Haggling Although bargaining is common practice throughout the greater Arabian Peninsula, it is less so in Yemen. Prices are often open to some negotiation, but shoppers should not expect huge markdowns from the initial price. Excessive haggling may cause offense. Anthony Ham and Frances Linzee Gordon, “Bargaining,” in Lonely Planet: Arabian Peninsula (Footscray, Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 2004), 443. Exchange 36: Can I buy a jambiya with this much money?
Soldier: mumkin ashtaree jambeeya bi-teeyeh az-zalaT?
(Can I buy a jambiya with this much money?)
Local: ma'
(No.)
It is important for customers to familiarize themselves with the market and its practices by visiting a number of different stalls and comparing prices and qualities of goods. With an understanding of local pricing norms, foreigners will be able to better conduct negotiations with vendors. After agreeing to a price, customers should follow through with the transaction; it is inappropriate to withdraw an offer that has been accepted or to bargain if there is no intention to buy. The basic unit of Yemeni currency is the Yemeni Rial (YER). Banknotes are available in denominations of YER 10, YER 20, YER 50, YER 100, YER 200, YER 500, and YER 1000. Coins come in denominations of YER 5, YER 10, and YER 20. In early 2010, the exchange rate was USD 1 to YER 204. Exchange 37: Can you give me change for this?
Soldier: mumkin tiSrif lee teeyeh?
(Can you give me change for this?)
Local: ma'
(No.)
Although U.S. dollars and euros are accepted in Yemen, some merchants may require payment in YER. Those vendors who accept foreign currencies will likely want payment in small bills because of the fear that larger denomination banknotes may be counterfeit. 38 Do you accept U.S. currency? Soldier: batigbal 'umla amreekeeya? Do you accept U.S. currency? Local: ma' maa nigbal ilaa ar-reeyaal No we only accept Riyals. Markets and other businesses typically close from approximately 1–4 p.m. During this time locals partake in the daily qat chew after bargaining for the best leaves from sellers in souks that specialize in qat. Robert Fox, “A National Obsession,” Travel Blog, 16 March 2010, http://www.travelblog.org/Middle-East/Yemen/Sanaa/blog-482776.html Exchange 39: How much longer will you be here?
Soldier: kam baagee lak tiglis haanaa?
(How much longer will you be here?)
Local: thalaath saa'aat
( Three more hours.)
Because of rampant poverty, beggars are widespread in busy urban areas such as marketplaces. They are often children or refugees. Saeed al-Batati, “In Yemen, Somali Refugees Beg to Survive,” Arab News, 13 January 2010, http://www.arabnews.com/node/332630 Exchange 40: Give me money.
Local: ideenee zalaT
(Give me money.)
Soldier: maabesh ma'ee shee
(I don’t have any.)
Many Yemeni children have been trafficked into the major urban areas of Sanaa and Aden, or nearby Saudi Arabia, to work as street beggars or in the commercial sex trade. Office to Monitor and Combat Trafficking in Persons, U.S. Department of State, “Country Narratives: Countries Q Through Z: Yemen,” in Trafficking in Persons Report 2012, 374, http://www.state.gov/documents/organization/192598.pdf Transportation Yemen’s roads are limited and often in poor condition. Roads within and between major urban centers are paved, but maintenance is haphazard and conditions vary from good to poor. The best intra-urban highways are in the west, running between Sanaa and Ta’izz in the highlands, and from those cities to Al Hudaydah on the Tihama. Federal Research Division, Library of Congress, “Country Profile: Yemen,” August 2008, http://memory.loc.gov/frd/cs/profiles/Yemen.pdf Driving conditions in urban areas are often unsafe. Traffic lights and police are present, but basic traffic laws are not obeyed or enforced except to solicit bribes from offenders. Vehicles are often in poor condition; many lack basic features such as working headlights, taillights, and turn signals. Hazards include both pedestrians and animals. Bureau of Consular Affairs, U.S. Department of State, “Yemen: Country Specific Information,” 16 February 2012, http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1061.html Foreigners can drive in Yemen with an International Driving Permit. British Foreign and Commonwealth Office, “Travel Advice: Yemen,” 21 January 2010, http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-by-country/middle-east-north-africa/yemen/ Rental vehicles can be hired with or without a driver. Hired drivers may also serve as navigators, interpreters, and basic mechanics. Anthony Ham and Frances Linzee Gordon, “Transport in Yemen: Getting Around,” in Lonely Planet: Arabian Peninsula” (Footscray, Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 2004), 430. Exchange 41: Where can I rent a car?
Soldier: men feyn asta-gir sayaara?
(Where can I rent a car?)
Local: bi-wasaT al-madeena
(Downtown.)
Diesel fuel is subsidized by the government in Yemen. Subsidies can promote overuse by those with preferential access and can lead to shortages for those lacking connections. Shortages are periodically reported in the Yemeni press. Ashwaq Arrabyee, “Gas, Diesel and Electricity Crisis Continues in Yemen,” e.blogspot.com, 22 March 2011, http://narrabyee-e.blogspot.com/2011/03/gas-diesel-and-electricity-crisis.html Exchange 42: Is there a gas station nearby?
Soldier: beh maHaTat batrol gareeba min haanaa?
(Is there a gas station nearby?)
Local: na'am
(Yes.)
Mechanics and parts stores are less widespread and may be difficult to find. Anthony Ham and Frances Linzee Gordon, “Transport in Yemen: Getting Around,” in Lonely Planet: Arabian Peninsula (Footscray, Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 2004), 429. Exchange 43: Is there a good auto mechanic nearby?
Soldier: beh mikaaneekee gareeb min haanaa?
(Is there a good auto mechanic nearby?)
Local: na'am
(Yes.)
Rails, Buses, and Taxis Yemen has no rail network. Plans have been made to construct a railway running southward from Saudi Arabia through the Tihama, and then eastward through Aden and along the southern coast to Oman. Although proposed for July 2010, instability in both the north and south has hindered and may halt construction. Reuters, “Yemen to Launch $3.5bn Railway,” National, 17 January 2010, http://www.thenational.ae/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20100117/FOREIGN/701179964/1107/FORIEGN , Abdul Aziz al-Hiajem, “Yemen to Construct First Railway Line to Link It to Saudi Arabia, Oman,” Al Arabiya News, 4 October 2012, http://english.alarabiya.net/articles/2012/10/04/241857.html Exchange 44: Is there a train station nearby?
Soldier: beh maHaTat geeTaar gareeba min haanaa?
(Is there a train station nearby?)
Local: ma'
(No.)
Taxi service is available between and within urban areas. Shared taxis (bijous) are typical, usually consisting of station wagons holding 8–10 people. Pickup stations are known as furzat. Taxi drivers usually only leave with a full load, unless payment is made for empty seats. Daniel McLaughlin, “Chapter 2: Practical Information: Getting Around,” in Yemen (Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 2007), 53–54. Exchange 45: Where can I get a cab?
Soldier: feyn 'alaagee taaksee ?
(Where can I get a cab?)
Local: haanaak
(Over there.)
Taxis can also be contracted for travel between cities, but customers pay the price of any empty seats. There are also motorbike taxis, which are cheaper and can move through traffic more easily. Ashraf al-Muraqab, “Motorbikes: Robbery, Harassment and Tragic Accidents,” Yemen Times, 23 April 2012, http://www.yementimes.com/en/1566/health/756/Motorbikes-robbery-harassment-and-tragic-accidents.htm Exchange 46: Can you take me there?
Soldier: mumkin tashulnee laa haanaak?
(Can you take me there?)
Local: na'am agdar
(Yes, I can. )
Fares between cities are usually fixed. Fares around town in contracted taxis (rather than shared taxis) should be negotiated beforehand, because meters are not used.